Fairbanks, Alaska

Known as the Last Frontier, Alaska boasts a rugged, untamed beauty that has captivated people for generations, from the earliest explorers to the tourists of today. There is just something about Alaska that demands our attention. But more importantly, Alaska demands our respect. Each year, it is estimated that nearly 2,000 people go missing in Alaska, and while some are found alive and well, too many others are overtaken by the elements because they did not respect the nature of this beautiful, misunderstood state.

Alaska has been high-up on my travel bucket list for quite some time. You would think that after eight months living near the Arctic Circle in Finland that I would have had enough of snowy conditions. But I have always been curious about America's northernmost state, and now, I finally have the chance to experience it for myself.

Descending into Fairbanks, Alaska, one can't help but liken it to landing inside a giant snow globe. It's an overcast afternoon in February and the clouds obscure everything beyond the trees like a big gray dome. Dreary, but also mysterious, like Alaska is waiting to make a dramatic entrance. It's a quiet city, not just in size or because March isn't exactly peak tourist season. The snow around us seems to absorb all sound, cocooning us in beautiful, icy silence.

It cushions my footfalls as I wander around the Tanana Valley Fairgrounds, home to the 2023 World Ice Art Championships. This competition draws the best ice sculptors from all over the world to create one-of-a-kind works of art in no more than 3 to 5 days depending on the division. By the time I arrive at the fairgrounds, most of the artists are taking a much-deserved break from their work, but guests can stay entertained by checking out some of the finished pieces and enjoying a sort of arctic playground.

Children ride plastic toboggans down canals of ice while the adults embrace the competitive spirit in the Game Room, an aptly named area featuring corn hole, giant checkers, ping pong, and even ski ball, all constructed of ice, of course.

It doesn’t take long for me to lose a round of put-put golf along with all feeling in my toes. This, apparently, will become a prevalent theme for the weekend ahead and I mentally curse myself for not investing in those hand and feet warmers when I had the chance.

My first two days in Alaska blend together in a haze of fatigue. We lose nearly a whole day on travel, arriving too late to experience much beyond the little Mexican restaurant across the street from our hotel and a small corner gift shop where I pick up a postcard and a sticker (I like my souvenirs cheap and easy to transport).

By eleven, I am all ready to climb into my sad little fold-out couch and get some shut-eye, but there was still one item on the agenda. It was time to go hunting for the Northern Lights. Now, there are a few things to keep in mind when one is hoping to witness the Aurora Borealis, the most important being to moderate your expectations. While not a rare occurrence by any means, the northern lights can be shy, and they require a combination of factors in order to be seen clearly, if at all. Not only does the strength of the Aurora need to be at least KP 4 to 6 in order to be really visible, but the sky needs to be clear of clouds and you need to be far enough away from the light pollution generated by cities and towns.

Creamer's Field is the most recommended spot if you want to stay close to Fairbanks, however, you will be dealing with a lot of light from the town. We opt for one of the more popular spots for aurora viewing, Clearly Summit, about twenty miles north of Fairbanks - a little more of a drive but worth it to get away from the threat of light pollution spoiling our view. However, the clouds have other plans and we end up leaving a little after midnight without even a glimmer of cosmic activity.

The next day is spent walking around Fairbanks (which takes all of twenty minutes) and getting settled into our Air BnB. The rest of our travel party officially arrive that evening, just in time for dinner and games. It is a quiet night, and we all retire to bed once it's clear that the aurora would not be making an appearance.

Day three, or what I am calling the first official day of my Alaskan adventure dawns bright and beautiful. I am enjoying my coffee while gazing out at the sunrise spreading across a frozen lake - life is good. And I am on a mission to make today epic. This trip did not have a set itinerary, but there are a few points of interest that I want to hit. However, navigating the different tastes and temperaments of a large group of people without spending too much money or violating our rental car contract is not exactly easy.

Given the terrain around Fairbanks, there are certain areas and roads that are off-limits to tourists driving in their rented cars, and for good reason. But this means that a trip to somewhere like the Arctic Circle is out, unless you are willing to pay the extra money for a guided tour. For the right price, you can find any number of fun excursions hosted by a tour company operating out of Fairbanks. Whenever I travel, I usually book some sort of excursion even if it is more expensive because you are usually provided the gear and transportation, plus the added assurance that your guide knows how to make sure you experience all that locale has to offer.

But, if the group consensus is no guided tour, what does one do for free, using only the rental company-approved roads? Well, if you’re game for a little day trip, Denali National Park is a great option for travelers on a budget who want to experience some of Alaska’s beautiful landscape. I’m a road trip girlie. I love to get in the car, put on a good playlist, and watch the country change over the course of the day. My dad and I will take any excuse to get on the road, and I always try to plan our routes to knock a national park or two off the bucket list. With Denali National Park a mere 2.5 hours away, I'm not letting that opportunity slip away.

Piling into two cars, we set off for the park. I have no idea what to expect, no idea what we might see, I just need to get out of the house and experience Alaska. Long story short; we didn’t see the famous mountain from which the park gets its name, but we did see several beautiful unnamed peaks capped in snow, one underwhelming (and yet totally worth it) welcome sign, and one moose (maybe). Denali proved to be a hotbed for beautiful photo ops and I had no qualms about making my father pull the car over multiple times to document the experience.

Our little afternoon jaunt-turned-day-long adventure culminates in dinner at what seems to be the hottest spot on the Parks Highway, the Panorama Pizza Pub. We grab a table just before the crowds descend to enjoy a plate of pulled pork sliders and a glass of Alaskan White Ale. Darkness has fallen by the time we finish our meal and start heading back to Fairbanks, and I spend most of the drive craning my neck against the glass to look at the sky, trying to spot a glimmer of green or purple among the stars.

Tonight, our group is taking no chances. Despite the fact that we are all exhausted from a day on the road, we rally what little energy we have left, playing games to stay awake while keeping one eye on the University of Alaska webcam for any sign of the aurora. And just when I'm ready to give up hope and go to sleep, the faintest glimmer has us mobilizing our forces back to Clearly Summit.

And there they are. The Aurora Borealis, hanging like a sage green banner in the night sky.

It is in fact an epic day, punctuated by witnessing a phenomenon that drives human beings to travel to the northern reaches of the world to see. Check that off the bucket list.

We all take a self-care day after our Denali Adventure and late-night excursion. For some in our group, that means laying low at the Air BnB, but for the rest of us, Chena Hot Springs is calling our names. Research 'Things to Do in Fairbanks' and 10/10 you will be advised to visit the hot springs. Family-friendly, affordable, and only two hour's drive from Fairbanks, Chena Hot Springs is a great way to end our trip to Alaska.

Wading through the billowing steam, surrounded by the snowy landscape, it's a spot as beautiful as it is relaxing. An hour in the hot springs is all you need to feel refreshed mentally and physically. My one note of criticism is that the locker rooms are way too small for how popular the hot springs are. It was cramped and chaotic, and you barely had room to change into your bathing suit without ending up in someone’s very personal space. With limited locker space, it felt like I was being circled by vultures, waiting for the last of my belongings to be moved so they could sweep in and claim their spot. That was not so relaxing. But overall, it was a pleasant experience, and I would definitely recommend the Chena Hot Springs to anyone visiting Fairbanks.

Alaska truly is a magical place, a state characterized by the rough-hewn majesty of its landscape and the strength of the people who call this place home. Fairbanks was just a small taste of all that Alaska has to offer, and I can't wait to come back and explore more of the Last Frontier.