Brussels, Belgium

At the end of my 2018 Volleyball season, I embarked on a six-day adventure through three different countries before I would fly home to the United States. From the Czech Republic, I hopped on a night bus bound for Belgium and let me tell you... that is an experience I have no desire to repeat.

I’ve only taken a night bus once before on my way to the Czech Republic from the tryout in Slovenia. I chalked the terrible experience up to extreme stress and fatigue and decided to give this method of transport another shot. Night buses tend to be cheaper than taking a train and allowed me to complete eight hours-worth of travel during the night without cutting into prime sightseeing time. Not to mention I wouldn’t have to pay for an extra night at a hostel on top of transport.

Some buses are nicer than others, equipped with power outlets and a moderate amount of legroom, but even with these “luxuries”, you are still cramped in very close proximity to more and more passengers that get on at every stop. On this particular journey, two stressful encounters with border patrol in the middle of the night and uncomfortable sleeping arrangements cemented my aversion to this mode of travel. I would rather shell out the extra $30 or $50 to have a real bed where I can get a decent night’s rest.

By the time I arrived in Brussels, it was 5:30 am and nothing was open, including my hostel. The bus station and the adjoining metro station were empty except for homeless people sleeping on cardboard and wandering the dingy halls. Even though I was travelling with a friend, I did not feel comfortable being two American tourists walking aimlessly around a sketchy metro station.

In America, you would have no trouble locating an open coffee house at 6 am to cater to the early risers and businesspeople (especially in Seattle where you can’t walk two blocks without hitting a Starbucks). This was proving to be a more difficult task in downtown Brussels before the sun had risen. Finally, after an hour of trudging, I found an open café/bar playing Ukranian music videos to one other patron. I ordered a tea and glass of water and waited until my hostel opened at 7:30.

It's important to note that not every hostel is created equal, and you need to plan accordingly if yours does not have a 24-hour reception desk. If you have no choice but to arrive earlier than your hostel can accommodate, check to see what kind of cafes or restaurants might be open in the area, or if the bus/train/metro stations are safe and secure.

I stayed at the Youth Hostel Van Gogh, named for the building where Van Gogh was known to work during his visits to Brussels. It's located about a twenty-minute walk from the downtown area, so be ready for a trek in the rain, wind, or snow – I experienced it all! The staff was very friendly once the doors had actually opened, and they offer free breakfast if you have stayed the night, otherwise it was 2.50 euros to eat in their dining room. They do offer luggage storage, but you must rent the lock and while beds are assigned in the rooms, not every hostel-goer immediately knows this or cares. Be prepared to switch around, as part of the hostel experience is learning to be flexible.

The first item on the Brussels itinerary was a free walking tour. There are several companies that offer free tours in nearly every major European city, and I reserved a space with Sandemans, a company I have used before in Krakow.

I met the tour group in the Grand Place, a beautiful square in the city center surrounded by baroque buildings covered in gold leaf. The major stops along the tour included the Galeries St. Hubert, Mannekin Pis (Brussels’ most popular monument and therefore replicated in every kind of souvenir imaginable), and the comic book murals that are scattered all throughout the city. The tour ended at the Pont des Arts, a picturesque courtyard surrounded by several art museums that overlooks the city.

Du Pistolet is a great sandwich shop recommended by my tour guide, Maggie, and the tomato mozzarella sandwich hit the spot after a three hour walking tour in the rain. I then headed back to the Galeries St. Hubert for chocolate shopping. Below are a few of my favorite shops based on quality, price and overall aesthetic.

Mary

Founded by Brussels’ first female chocolatier, this beautiful shop is a favorite of the Belgian royal family, with gorgeous chocolate boxes featuring original prints from when the shop opened in 1919. This shop is on the pricier end, but the attention to detail and exquisite presentation make it all worth it.

Neuhaus

One of the oldest chocolatries in Belgium, this store was in full Easter swing when I arrived, offering chocolate eggs in their signature blue boxes. This shop is more expensive than your average Godiva (which you can also find in the St. Hubert), but more ideal for the average shopper than it’s more affluent neighbor, Pierre Marcolini.

Leonidas

Known around Belgium as “the cheap gift for someone you really don’t like”, I found Leonidas a good option that didn’t hurt my bank account and still tastes good, making it the perfect spot when shopping for loved ones back home. The packaging is not as detailed as the aforementioned shops, but it still good quality Belgian chocolate (at least in my opinion) for a good price that anyone in the States would appreciate in the end.

Looking to keep the sweetness going? It’s hard to walk more than five feet in this city without running into a shop selling waffles. I bought one loaded with Nutella, strawberries, and whip cream, effectively crossing “Eat a Belgian Waffle in Belgium” off my bucket list.

The next day, I headed to the Sablon neighborhood, bags in tow, to kill some time before I caught a bus to my next destination. The Sablon is a very elegant neighborhood and home to the Notre - Dame de Sablon. Though smaller in scale compared to its Parisian counterpart, this cathedral still exudes the wealth and intricacy that defined the period of its construction. Although the church itself was not open to visitors, I could frolic through the gardens to my heart’s content.

I capped off my stay with a cup of hot chocolate and Chantilly cream at Wittamer, a Chocolatrie with a café above the shop. While the beverages may have been a tad overpriced, it was worth sipping the melted chocolate from my window seat overlooking the streets of Sablon. Overall, it was a lovely and decadent visit to Beautiful Brussels.